BuddyGarner Posted December 2, 2013 Share Posted December 2, 2013 Body Scissors is awesome as is choke hold in no DQs. Cravate flip is nice as well. If your opponent is depleted you can have a 40% chance to hit moves. Similarly watch your stamina so your opponent doesn't get the 40% chance to hit on you. If your stamina bar goes red do a move that requires an effort of none until the bar goes blue. Don't pick opponents up. Wait for them to stand. It's best to just do high level or finisher moves directly on the ground but most wrestlers are deficient in those areas. You can do a submission move or pinfall move to get them standing as well. Going for a blood loss DQ is a valid strategy. Watch out for the owners of the fed having better stats than a main eventer should be for that fed. For example: Puerto Rican Power in FSW. To get good match ratings, don't mess around. Don't let the opponent get offense in. That just tends to make things worse. Just always go for the maximum move available and high damage moves(not always possible but when possible try for medium or high moves to get into finishing position). Your stats and opponents stats will improve over time allowing for better ratings. Strength and speed are good defensive stats due to the prevalence that those are incorporated into calculations. Treat grappling, ground, and striking as offensive stats. Reasons to use Brace when not for chance to obtain control: 1) The move would take you to a position of the ring where you want to be. If an opponent is weak on the ground and he's using a move that would take you there it could be worth it to brace as he may pick you up giving you a chance to gain control or doing a move that has counters you're more skilled at per se avoid/move. 2) Bracing wears down the opponents stamina. The stamina penalties are amongst the most severe in the game. The stamina penalties he gets will outweigh the damage penalties you suffer from. 3) Bracing would lower the chance of win so you can't lose. The key COW's are 300, 600, and 750. So COW's of 333, 666, and 833 after modifiers would be worth bracing so your opponent can't get a successful pin attempt. If you can get control after your opponent would likely have red stamina giving you a bonus to hit if you can get control. 4) The move might give you control if you're hit. Some abilities can grant you control when bust open by blood for example so it might be worth it to let yourself be bloodied. Reasons to use Taunt: 1) Taunts are one of the few ways to get positive momentum without sapping energy. Notable exceptions include eye gouge, face rake, and cravate flip. 2) A medium taunt Face Rub is the only way to cause blood without sapping energy. 3) Taunts use the rush counter instead of the fight back counter for moving to positions. So if you want to go to the top rope, doing top rope point may be more worthwhile than climbing to the top rope based on your speed versus opponent's speed and other stats. 4) Taunts allow you to change position while allowing you time to recover before going red. Picking up an opponent wouldn't help you recover from a high draining move whereas a taunt would allow you to get your opponent up and recover while doing so. MVP Moves: Fisherman's Suplex-Available when opponent is at low health and gets over the magic 600Cow for opponents at 750OR or greater. Cravate Flip-Takedown that requires no energy drain Body Scissors-Drains Stamina fast Choke Hold-Drains opponent's stamina while not draining your own energy Face Rake-Good for doing after your opponent blocks to prevent two blocks in a row also requires no energy. MVP-Stat Levels: Ground-400(Gives you a bunch of ground moves and moves that get your opponent standing without resorting to the actions menu) Strength-750(Get slightly better moves and most importantly torture rack which is a standing submission for submission matches and matches with bribed referees as submission holds don't suffer from the 25% penalty that pinfalls do) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psycho Sam Posted December 3, 2013 Share Posted December 3, 2013 Most top rope moves require athleticism. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-Lyrium Posted December 3, 2013 Share Posted December 3, 2013 I was going to do one of these (I even called it the same name ), so I might as well put it here. It's not quite finished yet - as much as something like this can ever be 'finished' - but it's getting there. Warning: Long post incoming! D-Lyrium's Wrestling Spirit 3 Tips And Tricks --------------------------------------------- (Because I'm much better at writing than at speaking, or setting up streams properly. ) This post is designed for players who are new to the game, or who struggle with it and get frustrated by long 50 minute epics that never seem to end. Please note this post is still evolving. Some details may be incorrect or missing, and will be fixed over time. Please also note that a lot of this information is available in the help file, but nobody bothers to read that. ¬_¬ The Very Basics - Attack vs. Defence -------------------------------------- At it's heart, WreSpi is a very simple game to understand. One guy attacks, the other defends. The attacker is trying to hit moves, the defender is trying to stop him and gain control so that he becomes the attacker. Moves have two crucially important stats: The Chance of Hit (CoH) and the Chance of Win (CoW). The CoH is the likelihood that the move will actually connect, the CoW is the chance that the move will result in a 3-count or submission (or countout, or cage escape... you get the idea). Finishes can happen either directly as a result of the move (such as from a Sunset Flip, which ends in a pinning predicament, or submission hold, which obviously ends in a submission attempt) or indirectly by doing something immediately afterwards (such as a Stunning Face Crusher or New York Minute, following which you then attempt a pinfall or escape the cage). Winning a match relies on the CoW of the last move you hit (or in some circumstances, the move your opponent just missed!), regardless of the rules of the match. To escape a cage you need to have hit a powerful enough move, just as you would for a pinfall. The only exceptions are First Blood matches, which rely only on causing your opponent to bleed (which there is a separate stat for), and Tables matches, which rely on moves you can do through a table. Only High and Finisher level moves can win a Tables match though (nobody likes losing to a Powerslam, even if it was through a table!). The CoH of a move is altered by several factors, the most common being a defensive Counter Action (such as a Break, Block or Avoid attempt). Counter Actions give a penalty to the move's Chance of Hit, making it less likely to succeed. The size of this penalty is dependent on a 'stat battle' (see Countering, below). As well as penalties you can also get bonuses (making the move MORE likely to succeed), such as the attacker having high momentum. You can see all of the factors affecting the dice rolls by using the Calculations button on the move popup. Momentum ---------- Another basic element to bear in mind is Momentum. The optimum situation is you having good momentum and your opponent bad, obviously. The momentum scale is:Full Very High High Good NormalPoor Low Very Low Empty You'll get a bonus to your Chance of Hit if your opponent has Poor momentum or below ("red momentum") and you have High momentum or above (the bigger the gap, the better the bonus). There's no bonus for Good momentum, and you don't get a bonus if they're at Normal or above regardless of your own momentum. Some moves are designed to increase your momentum, while others are designed to reduce your opponents' (this is displayed on the move's "profile"). As a general rule, impact moves and strikes will increase yours while submission/rest holds and locks will reduce theirs, but beating on a wrestler will eventually reduce their momentum by virtue of the fact they're getting their arse kicked. Know Yourself, Know Your Opponent, Know Your Role ------------------------------------------------- When in the match menu, click your own picture in the top left to get to the in-match profile screen. This'll tell you your current stats (which can change as you take damage in a match or begin to run out of stamina (see Going The Distance, below)) and remind you of your attributes. Attributes range from useful bonuses to game-changers. Obviously it makes sense to play to your strengths and expose weaknesses here; if you're a Counter Grappler, use grapples instead of strikes when you decide to counter with a move (but this won't affect your chance of countering in general; see Countering). If you have an attribute that increases your chance of hitting with strikes, use more strikes. If your opponent takes more damage to a certain area of his body, target that area (and if he takes less to another area, avoid that one where possible). It'll also tell you, in brackets, the size of your advantage or disadvantage over the person currently in the ring with you. This is one of the more important things to know in a match. A big part of WS3 strategy is matching up your strengths with your opponent's weaknesses. You want to find the biggest advantage (or, in some cases, smallest disadvantage!) you have and exploit it. WreSpi is a game based around randomness and luck, but to be successful you need to "make your own luck" - stack the deck in your favour with bonuses, and give your opponent as many penalties as you can. Sometimes you'll fall victim to a terrible roll of the dice and will fail no matter what you do - that's Bloodbowl! Erm, I mean WreSpi! - but the more chance you give yourself the better you'll do. The first thing I do in each match is to look at my match profile screen and work out my main strengths. Rather than adding up my advantage every time I select a counter, I look at the profile screen at the start of the match and ask myself the following: - Where do I have the biggest advantage? Look at the main 'stat battles' you'll be up against: Strength vs. Strength (Break and getting the most out of Brace) Spirit vs. Spirit (Block) Speed vs. Speed (Avoid/Move vs. non-strikes) Grappling/Speed vs. Grappling (Slip Out) Striking vs. Speed (Avoding strikes) Which of those do you 'win by' the most? Those should be your go-to counters, the ones you use most often. It's worth noting at this point that Block has the most 'value' as a counter (I'll try to remember to explain more later!). So if it's close between two different counters (and you don't have Iron Will, which makes Break just as good) then go for Block. - Where do I have the biggest disadvantage? Look at the above battles again and see where you come off worst. Try to avoid using those counters, obviously - that'd be silly having just identified them as weak! But also try to avoid using moves that can be countered BY them. For instance, look at a Drop Toe Hold. It can be Avoided or Blocked, so it's not the best move to use if your opponent has more Speed or Spirit than you. But against big guys who rely on strength, it's a great start as you can't use Break against it. If successful, they'll also be on the ground, where Brace is much less effective for them (again, see the later section on Bracing). Meanwhile a Front Facelock can be Broken or Blocked (or escaped via Rope Break, which is again a Spirit-based counter). So it's better to use on fast wrestlers than strong ones, as their Speed is useless against it. That's not to say that you CAN'T use, for example, Block against someone with better Spirit, just that you probably have better options. There is never a scenario where a counter flat-out can't work. Fearless Blue could - in theory - break a Marat Khoklov headlock, but it wouldn't be his wisest choice unless it was his ONLY choice (which, in the case of Break, it almost never is). - Lastly, if he has a big advantage, can I do something about it? Stats degrade based on the health of the relevant body part (and Stamina). So if you're fighting a fast opponent and he's Avoiding a lot of your moves while hitting lots of aerial attacks, it might be a good idea to 'work his legs'; which is to say, concentrate on using moves that do damage to his legs instead of (/as well as) other areas. That way the more damage he takes to his legs, the more his Speed stat will degrade, the less of an advantage he'll have over you. The same is true for other body parts: Head - Spirit. Arms - Striking, Strength, Grappling. Body - Striking, Strength, Grappling, Athleticism. Legs - Speed. So, as you can see, the best area to go for is the Body. Which is no coincidence, as the vast majority of moves in the game do damage to the body! The 'working the body part' strategy is also useful if you have a favourite submission finisher, as any finisher which does damage to an already-injured body part has a bonus to it's CoW. So you're more likely to win a match with a Scorpion Deathlock if an opponent's legs or body are already injured, as you'd expect. Countering ----------- Each counter action (Move, Block, Break, Avoid, etc) decreases the Chance of Hit of the move being used on you by a certain percentage of it's original value (from here on out this will be referred to as "the bonus", even though technically it's actually a penalty to your opponent). The size of the percentage depends on how much you win the 'battle' by and which counter action you're using. Different combinations of counters and moves being countered will require different battles. So it's important to pick the counter that you're best at out of the available options. A random number between 0 and 200 is then added to the relevant stat for each player. The 'winner' of the battle is the one with the highest total of their skill + random number. The more you 'win' by, the bigger the percentage bonus you get. As you've probably noticed, this means that if you're 200 points or more behind the opponent's stat you're trying to beat, you can never win the 'battle' (and if you're 200pts or higher ahead, you can never 'lose'). You can never have a penalty for trying to counter, though, the bonus will just be tiny one. The minimum bonus you can get (if you lose the battle) is 4% (8% when Blocking or Rolling Through and I think 5% for Avoiding). The largest is 33%, though not for all counters (Break, for instance, is 28%). It's important to note that losing this 'stat battle' does NOT necessarily mean you can't counter the move. It just means you'll have a much smaller chance of doing so. The reverse, clearly, is also true. Being 200pts stronger than your opponent does not guarantee breaking every move successfully (if it did, Khoklov would be virtually invincible!); it just gives you a bigger chance. Example 1: I have 600 strength, you have 400. You try to Break my move. There's no way you can beat me (as even if I roll a 1 and you roll a 200, I've still won by a point). So the penalty to my move chance is always going to be the minimum percentage (4% in the case of a Break attempt). If the strength values were reversed this would be a fantastic counter, as you're guaranteed the maximum percentage (28%). Example 2: You have 500 Spirit, I have 450 Spirit. You try to Block my move. Block is generally a good counter because it gives the biggest bonus (although requires two blocks in a row to take control). In this case it's decent. You'll probably beat me, but probably not by a massive amount. I have a chance of beating you, but most of the time you'll get a good bonus from this, and the maximum bonus is certainly possible. So essentially 'countering' boils down to 'making the opponent more likely to miss'. Winning the 'stat battle' makes that even more likely. Note that as listed above, not all battles compare the same stat. Slipping Out, for example, compares your highest out of Speed and Grappling with the opponent's Grappling. Block compares your Spirit with the opponent's Striking (assuming it's a strike he's trying to hit, otherwise it's Spirit vs. Spirit). The game explains the exact battle which will take place for each counter you use. Some stats aren't involved in counters at all: Stamina and Athleticism are two examples. Overall Rating is only used to counter attempts to pick you up (it has many, many other uses (see Stats), but that's its only use as an actual counter). Also note that after a while, being much better than someone stops improving your chances. It doesn't matter if you're 200pts stronger than your opponent or 800, for example. Once you're "too strong" for him, there is no further advantage. Except of course that there will be more people you're "too strong" for. 600 Strength is a lot compared to cruiserweights, not so great against a lot of heavyweight brawlers. Whereas 800 strength means you're stronger than the majority of the wrestling world. Also bear in mind that the bigger the 'lead' you have, the more damage it'll take to wear you down to his level. If you're too good, he might never be able to wear you down enough. So there are definitely advantages to being 'super-good' at a stat. So you see that different wrestlers will favour different counters, and even the same wrestler might favour different counters against different opponents, or even the same opponent as time wears on in the match and his stats degrade. As Halloween Knight, for instance, I have pretty good Spirit and Ground and decent Grappling. So against a brawler with high Spirit I'll be slipping out where I can. While against a technician with lower spirit I'll be Blocking more as their Grappling will usually be higher. Bracing ------- Bracing is admitting that you're about to get hit by a move, and preparing for it. When you Brace, the move will automatically hit you, it can't miss. You're just standing there and taking it, not even trying to get out of the way. Bracing does three things for you though: - It reduces the move's Chance of Win (making the move less likely to end the match). - It has a chance (at least 33%) of reducing the damage dealt by (by a maximum of 25%). - If it's a standing Strike move, there's a chance that you can 'shrug it off' it and go straight on the attack (though you still take damage from the move). This is the primary use of the Brace counter for big, powerful menacing guys. However, you won't be able to shrug off the move if: - you have red momentum (Normal will work) - your opponent is considerably stronger than you are (more than about +100 I think) - the move is a Finisher-level move (the lower the move level the better the chance of shrugging it off, but finishers cannot be shrugged off at all by anyone. For obvious reasons) - the move is not a Strike - the move is not executed while standing, on a standing opponent (you can't shrug off Ground Strikes, like elbow drops, or top rope moves like a Top Rope Double Axe Handle Smash). (The other two advantages will still work as normal, the above only applies to 'shrugging off' attacks, which is Brace's most useful effect but not it's only one). Generally, bracing works best at either end of a match, it doesn't have much use in the middle. If you're a big guy who relies on your Strength, it's very useful for shrugging off low-level strikes from your opponent and going on the attack. Think of that frequent sequence where a small wrestler tries punching or clotheslining someone like Khali or Big Show, only for him to ignore it like you would a fly, and hit a clothesline of his own which sends the guy into the second row. Or a heavyweight match in Japan where (usually the babyface) stands there being chopped into oblivion for upwards of a minute, before roaring in his opponents face and starting to beat away with chops of his own as if his opponent's chops never happened. That's what shrugging off is all about, essentially. It's much less useful if your opponent is stronger than you though, and should be completely avoided in the early going in that case (the CoW reduction is useless while the CoW is 0 anyway, and the damage reduction aspect isn't great when your opponent isn't doing much damage!). Even if you are a big guy, once your opponent starts using Medium level moves it becomes less useful to you as the chance of shrugging off higher level moves is reduced. Then, at the end of a match it becomes useful if the situation is hopeless. If your opponent has great momentum and you have none, a decent amount of health and is hitting you with a finisher where your other counters are terrible (like if Khoklov hits you with a move you can only Break), then Bracing might save you, as the reduction in damage and Chance of Win could save the day. It probably won't. But it could! So, in summary, Bracing is most useful for big, strong guys (or at least bigGER strongER ones) and desperate attempts to not get pinned when you're pretty sure you're going to lose anyway (it should never ever be "relied upon" to save you!). Counters and Offence -------------------- Obviously not all moves can be countered by every counter action, which you can use to your advantage. Is your opponent much stronger than you? Try not to attack him with moves that he can Break. Also - fairly standard tactic - whereever possible, avoid using a move that can be Blocked after an opponent has Blocked your previous move. That way he can never string two blocks together and take control (easier said than done though, as most moves can be blocked. It's the most basic, easiest to pull off counter and is intended to be near-universal). Countering With Moves --------------------- As well as Blocking, Breaking, Bracing and the other Counter Actions, you can also usually counter a move with another move. This is risky, as it doesn't alter the Chance of Hit of the move at all. It relies completely on the opponent failing his To Hit roll. This means it's a Very Bad Idea when your opponent is hitting low- and even most medium-level moves, as they're much less likely to fail. The advantage to countering with a move is that instead of simply stopping the move and taking control, you perform a move of your own (thus dealing damage) and take control. Three things can happen when you counter with a move: 1, your opponent hits his move. In this case, your counter is ignored and the game carries on as normal. 2, your opponent fails his move, and you hit yours. In which case, as you'd expect, the game carries on to your turn where you're on the attack having just hit your move. 3a, you both fail, and the move ends in a stalemate, where neither move is executed. For example, if you attempt to counter a Suplex with a Small Package. Your opponent fails to execute a suplex, but you also fail to execute a small package. Nothing happens, and the opponent remains in control (you can imagine that you're both locked in a collar-and-elbow, each unable to overpower the other this turn). However, some moves can't end in a stalemate. Moves like legdrops and sentons cannot end that way - either they hit, or they miss. Thus... 3b, you both fail, but the move can't end in a stalemate, so is automatically avoided (based on the logic that if he didn't hit, he must've missed, even though you didn't actively try to move out of the way). This works exactly as if you had used the Avoid (or Move, depending on the move in question but they're essentially the same) counter action successfully. As I mentioned before, countering with moves is risky because you don't get the bonus from a counter action. For this reason it's usually a "last resort", or at least a late-in-the-game play, where your opponent is hitting a High or Finisher level move (which doesn't have a great chance of hitting in the first place so doesn't "need" to be reduced by a counter action). If you have lower momentum than your opponent, successfully countering with a move can see a big momentum swing in your favour, as you grab control of the match unexpectedly. It's the stuff superhero comebacks are made of! Also worth mentioning is that you get a bonus to the CoH of the move you use to counter with, as the opponent is 'surprised'. He still doesn't get any penalties to his CoH, but if he does miss, your counter move will be easier to hit than normal. Going The Distance ------------------- Stamina is a finite resource. A lot of wrestlers, most of the time, won't notice its effects much at all because they'll have enough of it for it to not matter under most circumstances (600+ usually does the trick if you're LHW or below). However, running out of stamina is a b*tch, as all of your stats will start to decline. Making you, obviously, objectively less effective as a wrestler. You lose stamina by: - Using moves that have an Effort Required of greater than None (almost anything other than some rest holds and most Taunts). - Taking moves that have a Saps Opponent of greater than None (usually rest holds or specific 'wear down' holds, like the Abdominal Stretch and Sleeper Hold. It's rare for a strike or slam type move to drain the defender's stamina). Obviously the greater the degree of Effort or Sapping going on, the bigger the effect on Stamina. Usually, the moves that do the most stamina damage are the higher level ones, naturally, but there are a few exceptions to look out for. It's also worth noting that stamina loss most often happens when YOU are on the attack. If you're getting your ass kicked, your stamina is usually not affected much unless your opponent is using rest holds. Important note: The stamina bar turning red and the "breathing hard" penalty are NOT related directly to Stamina (although having more stamina means it'll happen less quickly). Doing a lot of moves in a row that require a high amount of effort (usually High and Finisher level moves) will cause the bar to turn red, meaning your wrestler is currently 'out of breath', independent of how much stamina he actually has left. While he's out of breath, he'll get a penalty to all of his moves (and counters if he becomes the Defender while still out of breath). Throwing in some rest holds and low-level moves will quickly remedy the situation, unlike stamina which is pretty much gone for good once it's gone - Taunts and moves that require no effort at all will help it slightly, but not a great deal. The only real way to guarantee stamina recovery is to tag out in a tag team match. A good way to learn about effects of Stamina is to play an exhibition match as Giant Redwood, who basically has none (and an attribute - Gasses Early - that makes it much, much worse for him!). You can clearly see with Redwood that executing most moves tires him out, but his Choke Hold doesn't (because it requires no effort). While he's getting beaten up, his stamina isn't falling much (but his health certainly is!), because he's not taking much stamina damage other than from moves specifically designed to do so. Moves Like Jaeger! ------------------ Apologies for the pun. And the reference. And everything about that sub-heading, really. This is the move set bit. There are two types of move set the AI can have: a Pre-Set moveset or an Auto-Generated moveset. Pre-Set movesets are pre-set in the editor, and will contain all the moves the database creator has decided the wrestler can use. These moves will always be available to him regardless of whether or not he has the stats required to perform them. The only occasions when moves will be unavailable to a worker with a Pre-Set moveset are if the opponent is too big (or small) to perform the move on, or the wrestler is too badly hurt to perform them (not in terms of stats, but some moves have a health requirement, example: A Plancha Dive requires you have at least 10% leg health remaining). This means that if you give a guy like Fearless Blue a move set which includes a Snap Backbreaker, he'll be able to perform it even though he doesn't have the required 400 Strength or 400 Grappling, as long as the opponent is no more than two sizes bigger than he is and he still has 20% arm health remaining. Auto-Generated movesets (sometimes called Dynamic movesets) are "on the fly" movesets, which are created for each wrestler who doesn't have a move set assigned to him. The moves used in it are based on the selected Culture and Categories for the wrestler (and obviously his stats; if a wrestler can't perform a move due to not having the stats, he won't have the move in his move set, even if he started the match with the requirements). Note that if you create a move set for a wrestler in the editor using the Auto-Generate feature and assign it to him, it counts as a Pre-Set move set regardless of the fact that it was automatically generated, even if you don't actually alter it. It's still a pre-set move set. Finally, there are Trademark moves. Trademark moves are ALWAYS available to the wrestler they're a trademark of, regardless of ANY other factors. Rich Money could be all-but clinically dead, and still able to hit the Bank Roll. Trademark moves cannot be added to a move set, they will automatically appear in the relevant wrestler's move set during a game. Trademark moves can only be the trademark of one wrestler each, so if you want multiple wrestlers to use the same trademark move, you'll need to copy the move and subtly alter the move name (for example: Matt Jackson Superkick and Nick Jackson Superkick). Where you and your opponent will end up after the move is defined in the move's profile ('Reeling' means the defender will be left staggered, and may either stay on his feet or fall over), as is whether you have to be behind the wrestler or not (you have to be behind someone for a Full Nelson and in front of someone for a DDT for instance, but it doesn't matter where you are for, say, a hammerlock because the act of twisting your opponent's arm around can easily be part of the move or not depending on if it's necessary from where you are). Where you and your opponent start off from (ie, the scenario required for the move to be performed) is dictated by the move's Move Type. As a general rule, if it doesn't say Ground, Corner or Top Rope, you both need to be standing. 'Rebound' means they need to be running (either as a result of an irish whip, or because you're countering a charging move). Pop-Up Top Rope means they have to be on the top rope, but you have to be standing in the ring. A Plancha requires you to be in the ring and them to be on the floor (either standing OR down; if they're down they're assumed to be in the process of getting up if the move in reality requires them to be standing). Slingshot vs. Springboard (Warning: Don't read this bit if you're easily confused!) In reality, a Slingshot move involves grabbing the top rope while on the apron and throwing yourself over the top, landing a move on a (usually, but not always) grounded opponent. Some moves involve the opponent standing up but are still clearly slingshot moves (a Slingshot DDT or Slingshot Headscissors Takedown). A Springboard involves using your feet to propel yourself off the ropes and hit a move on an opponent who is standing or downed. A Lionsault for instance is a Springboard Moonsault because you jump off the ropes (an Asai Moonsault is too, just going the other way). A Springboard DDT does exist (Rey Mysterio does a nice one), but it's very different. The opponent is usually much further away, and you jump OFF the rope to hit the DDT instead of vaulting OVER the rope to catch an opponent who's very close to you (usually because you've just dug your shoulder into his midsection through the ropes). Ignore all that for WreSpi! In WreSpi, it's both much more simple and much more confusing, depending on how much you think you knew! - A Springboard move has to be done from the apron to the inside on a standing opponent. Examples, West Coast Pop (Springboard Huracanrana), Springboard Clothesline, Springboard Dropkick. There aren't very many Springboard moves in WS3 compared to Slingshot moves. - A Slingshot move can be done from the ring OR apron, to a downed opponent in the ring. A considerable amount of Springboard moves in real life are considered Slingshot moves in WreSpi (due to how the game engine works). For instance, every single springboard move that doesn't involve being outside the ring is a slingshot move in WS3. This includes the Springboard Moonsault. Also note though, that some moves can be both. They are distinct moves. For instance, a Slingshot Legdrop (vaulting the ropes and landing on a guy) and a Springboard Legdrop (starting on the apron, jumping to the top rope, leaping off and landing on a guy) are both still legit moves, and so is what I guess we'll have to call a Slingshot Springboard Legdrop (think Lionsault but with a Legdrop instead of a Moonsault. John Morrison does one). God damn that's confusing, let's just use Running Springboard Legdrop instead, huh? ...oh, you want more confusion? Some moves that are classified as Slingshot moves are referred to as Springboard moves in the move name. A Springboard 450 Splash, for instance, is in reality a Springboard move, but since it hits a downed opponent, it's a Slingshot move in WreSpi, but still CALLED A Springboard 450 Degree Splash because that's what people know it as. And if that wasn't bad enough, there's a Slingshot Sunset Flip in the game which is a Springboard move, and under the game's definition of 'Springboard' that's both perfectly valid and accurately named! Even worse than that is the fact that , and under WreSpi conventions that'd be a Slingshot Sunset Flip! But it isn't in the game. For which I'm almost thankful. Oh, and there's Slingshot To Corner which has nothing to do with anything, it's just called a slingshot for the hell of it. You're welcome. (N.b, upon second reading of this section it might sound like I'm 'having a go' or 'making fun' here, I'm really not, it's a confusing-as-hell situation but a necessary one unfortunately). Building A Decent Move Set -------------------------- It doesn't matter how many or how few moves you have (well, there is such a thing as "too few"; one move is clearly too few! But within reason...), what matters is how well you use them. However, here are some guidelines: - Try to have at least one move in your arsenal that isn't a strike and ends with the opponent on the mat. A side headlock takedown or drop toe hold, for instance. - Also try to have at least one move in your arsenal which lowers your opponent's momentum, even (especially!) if you heavily rely on strikes. A Choke Hold is good for this, as absolutely anyone can do it (although it is illegal...). An Arm Bar or a Knee Pull is also available to most people. This will help against bigger, stronger opponents who like to brace and take over the match. They can't do that if they're on their arse or have low momentum. - It's difficult, because you can't see it without the editor (couldn't fit EVERYTHING on the screen ), but try to have a few high level and finisher moves that can be performed on anyone, regardless of size. Use common sense if you don't want to use the editor (if it involves lifting, you probably can't do it to a Giant!). Strikes and ground moves are usually a good bet. This is a piece of advice Bryan Vessey should've listened to, as of his 8 finishing moves, the only one he can do on anyone above light heavyweight is an instant DQ (he has lots of high level moves that can finish, but he'll struggle against anyone with decent Overall Rating!). So be careful of that. - As the move set screen will tell you, you'll need a High or Finisher level move that can draw blood, a submission move that can finish, and a high or finisher level move that can be done through a table (ideally also one that doesn't require you to lift someone to do it; either a top rope move if you're agile enough or something like an Animalistic Spear). There is an action you can perform to submit someone or draw blood so you'll never truly be in an 'unwinnable' position in those matches, but that has a much lower chance of win than a decent submission hold or blood-drawing move. - Try also not to rely too heavily on one strategy. You might like the idea of playing a striker, for instance, but if striking is ALL you can do, you'll be boned against someone who Braces a lot, or is quicker than you. Similarly if you rely entirely on top rope moves and speed, you'll come unstuck if your legs get taken out, or you find yourself wrestling a better all-out cruiserweight/spot monkey. Always have a backup plan, with some moves that can't all be countered by the same things. Stats ------ While semi-obvious and explained perfectly well by the in-game '?' system, I thought I'd include a few words on stats for completeness (ok, it turned into a lot of words). Overall Rating (OR): Essentially your 'popularity' (which sounds confusing as you have a perfectly good Popularity stat elsewhere, but bear with me!). Overall Rating is pretty damn important, and should generally be the first stat you max out whenever you raise in popularity. A wrestler with high Overall Rating will get a universal bonus to all his moves against a considerably lesser opponent (the bigger the gap in rating, the bigger the bonus). OR also governs how much health you start with (unless you have any attributes that effect it, your starting health is your OR), and the maximum you can have is dictated by Popularity. You also won't be able to be beaten by moves that don't have a healthy Chance of Win. It's in the help file, but: 500+ OR means you can't be beaten by anything less than 300 CoW 750+ OR raises that to 600 and you can't be beaten if you have Medium or above health. 900+ OR raises it to 750 and you can't be beaten unless you're at Danger level health. Spirit: Spirit is the 'fighting spirit' or 'never say die' attitude your wrestler has. It's high for plucky underdogs and fearless warriors, low for jobbers and generally quite low for dominant giants. It governs usage of the Block counter, and also Kick Away, Shake Ropes and those kinds of 'specific' counters, including most times you have to Fight Back against something. The important values are 700, 800, 900 and 1000, as that's when you get 1, 2, 3 and 4 Warrior Spirit points (which allow you to do cool things like kick out of finishers which would otherwise have pinned you, or escape submission moves just as you're about to tap out). In career mode, maximum Spirit is dictated by Popularity. Warrior Spirit points are 50/50 coin flips, and you'll automatically use as many as you have left until you get a success. For instance, if you have 3 points and fail the first roll, you'll use another one, if you succeed on that you'll kick out and have one point remaining (which you'll use next time). If you fail the second you'll use the third. If you fail the third too, you'll be pinned. Strength: The raw strength of your character. Unlike TEW's 'Power' attribute this isn't relative to your size, it's an absolute value (so Marat Khoklov's 1000 is just as strong as a middleweight's 1000 would be if a middleweight could get that high, which he can't. Ant Man is a freak of nature!). Some moves will be unavailable to you if you're not strong enough to execute them. Strength is used in the Break counter, as well as irish whipping and other actions which involve moving someone (like raising them to the top turnbuckle from the corner). Your maximum strength depends on your Size - your style determines how much you START with, but your Size determines your maximum. Striking: The measure of how good you are at striking opponents with punches, kicks, headbutts and the like. Higher striking reduces the chance of an opponent blocking your strikes (by virtue of the fact that it opposes their Block counter action), and like most stats, higher striking will grant you access to better strike-based moves. The maximum value depends on your Style (clearly a Brawler would have a better maximum striking stat than a Spot Monkey, for example). Grappling: Grappling is how good you are at grabbing an opponent and keeping them grabbed! In terms of the number of moves unlocked it's probably one of the most important stats in the game if you want a big, varied moveset, and undeniably the most important for a technician. It's the main stat used for Slipping Out and Rolling Through (and for stopping an opponent doing those things, too). So being a better Grappler than your opponent is pretty important if you use grappling moves, even if you're not actually a technician. The maximum is again based on your Style. Ground: Similar to Grappling, but only used when you're using Ground moves that are not strikes. Everything mentioned for Grappling applies to Ground too, but it's not THAT important for wrestlers who don't use a lot of ground moves (as almost every ground hold can be broken, blocked, or rope... er... rope broken?). Submission wrestlers need good grappling though, as most submission moves are ground moves (but note it won't actually improve your chances of getting a submission, just your chances of hitting the submission move in the first place). Ground Strikes (Stomps, elbow drops, etc) use Speed, not Ground. Speed: Speed is to speedy wrestlers what Grappling is to technicians. It can be substituted for Grappling in Slipping Out maneouvres, and is obviously the stat required for Rushing, Moving and Avoiding (also climbing the turnbuckles). The maximum is based on Size, not Style, so you can be just as fast as a technician as you are as a cruiserweight. Speed is a very important stat, as most moves in the game that aren't holds or grapple-based moves can be avoided. It's especially cruicial for anyone looking to use the turnbuckles or a lot of ground-based strikes (elbow/knee drops, etc). It's a very useful stat for anyone who isn't a power-based behemoth, basically. It also, as you'd expect, governs the high-flying and lucha moves you can use (in combination with Athleticism). Stamina: As mentioned above, stamina is crucial for absolutely everyone (especially bigger wrestlers as they tend to use more of it). As you perform moves and get locked in holds, your stamina depletes. As your stamina depletes, your stats begin to suffer. So the less stamina you have, the less time you have to win a match before your stats begin to get worse and worse and make it more and more difficult. Max stamina is based on Size (the bigger you are, the lower your maximum). Everyone needs a lot of it. Certainly you'll start to notice the effects if you have less than 400 in most matches. Having over 600 is usually fine, by the time you start trailing off, most matches will be nearly over anyway. Athleticism: Athleticism is a strange stat, in that its only purpose in the game is to dictate which of the more agile, athletic moves you can use. There are no counters or bonuses that rely on athleticism. The max is based on size, and unless you're a high-flier daredevil type, it's by far the least important stat in the game. It's roughly equivalent to TEW's 'Flashiness'. Size: While not exactly a 'stat' per se, size is important for determining the maximum values of many stats as mentioned above. It also has a role to play when Falling On Top (your Size gets converted into a numerical value, which opposes your opponent's Strength). Size also helps dictate which moves are available to you, and which are available to your opponent. You can change your size one category up or down every four years, to a maximum of two higher or lower than you started. Tag Teams ------------ In tag team storylines the game will take the eligible team mate with the highest teamwork (experience, essentially, though it rises way faster than in TEW) and use them instead of a random guy. You don't have to stick with the random partners the game gives you, but that can be fun too! To be eligible, the partner must: - Be in the same company as you (or unemployed if you're also unemployed). If unemployed, they don't need to be based in your area but do need to be available there (taking a random example: Austin Smooth can be your partner if you're on the indy scene in USA, Canada, Japan OR Mexico even though he's based in America - but not the British Isles, Europe or Australia as he's inactive there). - Be the same alignment as you if alignment is used in the company (it isn't on the indy scene). - Be of the same card level as you or lower. - Be a Regular or Occasional team. If you don't wish to team with someone for a while but are still eligible to, and want to keep your experience (for example, to team with someone new for a bit), switch them to Inactive and they'll be ignored. Tag storylines will then use the partner with the next-highest experience. Occasional teams can't compete in tag team title storylines, but are otherwise the same as Regular. You can see everyone in your current company (or indy scene) in the black box to the lower right of the screen, which will also show their card level and alignment (if used). Use the drop-down box above it to change company. To create a team, use the form on the left side (note that clicking a worker in the right-hand box does nothing, it's for reference only). You can also set up your tag team move set from this screen. Tag team moves can be used within 15 seconds of tagging out, and come with the same stipulations as any other move (ie, to hit a Tag Team Elbow Drop the opponent needs to be on the floor and you need to be standing). Only the legal man needs to be able to perform the move for it to be available. Quick Tips ---------- - If all the available counters seem equally good/bad, and Block is one of them, use Block. - If you blocked your opponent's last move, you get a 10% bonus to your next counter action (NOT counter move). Which is worth bearing in mind. One scenario where this is useful is if Strength is your best advantage, and your opponent throws a move at you that you can't Break. If you Block it instead, and the next move CAN be broken, you get a 10% bonus to your already decent chances (and if you have Iron Will, even better!). - Unless you have a decent strength advantage, try not to use standing strikes until your opponent's momentum is red. This will ensure they can't Brace them and take control. It's highly useful, if you're a striker, to have something that reduces opponents momentum, like a front facelock in your arsenal to reduce their momentum, or some sort of takedown to get them off their feet. - When facing an opponent with Warrior Spirit points (>700 Spirit), start pinning or submitting him as early as possible (make sure you use moves that can actually beat him, check the Overall Rating section of Stats, above). That way you can hopefully burn off a few WS points before you get to the point where you really need to win with your next attempt. - In the early goings of Rookie To Legend mode, it might be beneficial to team up with better wrestlers and work tag team storylines for a while. The better worker you're partnered with can help you win more matches, giving you more XP to upgrade your stats. For this reason it's normally not a great idea to give yourself ALL the negative tag attributes right off the bat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayW Posted December 3, 2013 Share Posted December 3, 2013 Great post! This will come in very helpful. Gonna give it a proper read later on tonight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OctoberRaven Posted December 3, 2013 Share Posted December 3, 2013 Another tip: If you're relying on mat wrestling, and your opponent manages to block your ground moves, consider going for a pinfall. Why? Because even though you'll be back to standing again, you can try to throw them back to the ground with low-level moves... and if they happen to block that, since you just did the pinfall, it won't count as two blocks in a row. From there, you can then either try another low level throw move or use a low-level strike that can't be blocked. Also, in tag team matches, the corner choke and the standing elbow blow are /very/ effective in wearing down your opponents. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truly Posted December 4, 2013 Share Posted December 4, 2013 D-Lyrium, you deserve a medal, my good sir! Just wow, if this thread already isn't it deserves to be pinned to the top ASAP! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeflonBilly Posted December 4, 2013 Share Posted December 4, 2013 Great post D-Lyrium! One point, though. I believe you get a bonus to any counter after a successful Block, not just if you use Block a second time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WrestleManiac Posted December 5, 2013 Share Posted December 5, 2013 As a general rule when momentum is Good or lower I will use low level moves. I will use medium level moves for high momentum; high level moves at very high, and Finishers only at full. If I'm feeling lucky, or my opponents momentum is near empty I might try I higher level move, but as a general rule I find this system works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teldil Posted December 6, 2013 Share Posted December 6, 2013 Great post, thanks! A question I'm wondering about regarding pinfall moves. From the default databse, the move "Standing Moonsault" is considered a Ground Pinfall move. However, the COW of this movie is 25 ! It confuses me why a pinfall move would have such a low COW, and why would someone ever use that move if their intention is to pin ? because as far as I understand, whether the pin will be successful or not depends on the COW roll. So basically this move would almost never get you a 3 count, while the sole reason it even exists should be to pin. Am I correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LucianCarter Posted December 6, 2013 Share Posted December 6, 2013 <blockquote data-ipsquote="" class="ipsQuote" data-ipsquote-username="Teldil" data-cite="Teldil" data-ipsquote-contentapp="forums" data-ipsquote-contenttype="forums" data-ipsquote-contentid="37180" data-ipsquote-contentclass="forums_Topic"><div>Great post, thanks!<p> </p><p> A question I'm wondering about regarding pinfall moves.</p><p> </p><p> From the default databse, the move "Standing Moonsault" is considered a Ground Pinfall move.</p><p> </p><p> However, the COW of this movie is 25 !</p><p> It confuses me why a pinfall move would have such a low COW, and why would someone ever use that move if their intention is to pin ? because as far as I understand, whether the pin will be successful or not depends on the COW roll.</p><p> So basically this move would almost never get you a 3 count, while the sole reason it even exists should be to pin.</p><p> </p><p> Am I correct?</p></div></blockquote><p> </p><p> You probably wouldn't use it to pin. You'd use it to inflict damage and wind up with your opponent in a standing position with you still on the offensive.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Trask Posted December 6, 2013 Share Posted December 6, 2013 <blockquote data-ipsquote="" class="ipsQuote" data-ipsquote-username="Teldil" data-cite="Teldil" data-ipsquote-contentapp="forums" data-ipsquote-contenttype="forums" data-ipsquote-contentid="37180" data-ipsquote-contentclass="forums_Topic"><div>Great post, thanks!<p> </p><p> A question I'm wondering about regarding pinfall moves.</p><p> </p><p> From the default databse, the move "Standing Moonsault" is considered a Ground Pinfall move.</p><p> </p><p> However, the COW of this movie is 25 !</p><p> It confuses me why a pinfall move would have such a low COW, and why would someone ever use that move if their intention is to pin ? because as far as I understand, whether the pin will be successful or not depends on the COW roll.</p><p> So basically this move would almost never get you a 3 count, while the sole reason it even exists should be to pin.</p><p> </p><p> Am I correct?</p></div></blockquote><p> </p><p> On the odd occasion you also get lucky, but yes, it deals damage so it's worth doing.</p><p> </p><p> I've won with and lost to moves with <200 CoW.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-Lyrium Posted December 6, 2013 Share Posted December 6, 2013 <blockquote data-ipsquote="" class="ipsQuote" data-ipsquote-username="Teldil" data-cite="Teldil" data-ipsquote-contentapp="forums" data-ipsquote-contenttype="forums" data-ipsquote-contentid="37180" data-ipsquote-contentclass="forums_Topic"><div>Great post, thanks!<p> </p><p> A question I'm wondering about regarding pinfall moves.</p><p> </p><p> From the default databse, the move "Standing Moonsault" is considered a Ground Pinfall move.</p><p> </p><p> However, the COW of this movie is 25 !</p><p> It confuses me why a pinfall move would have such a low COW, and why would someone ever use that move if their intention is to pin ? because as far as I understand, whether the pin will be successful or not depends on the COW roll.</p><p> So basically this move would almost never get you a 3 count, while the sole reason it even exists should be to pin.</p><p> </p><p> Am I correct?</p></div></blockquote><p> </p><p> Whether or not it has a good chance of win has nothing to do with whether or not it ends in a pinfall.</p><p> </p><p> It's a Ground Pinfall move because it's done when standing to an opponent on the ground and happens to end in a pinfall.</p><p> </p><p> It has a low chance of win because... well, when was the last time anyone won a match with a standing moonsault (when it wasn't a trademark move of theirs)? Just like a Sleeper Hold is a submission move but has a very low CoW - it's a submission because, technically, it is a submission hold. But these days it's hardly ever used to actually win a match, so the CoW is low.</p><p> </p><p> </p><blockquote data-ipsquote="" class="ipsQuote" data-ipsquote-username="TeflonBilly" data-cite="TeflonBilly" data-ipsquote-contentapp="forums" data-ipsquote-contenttype="forums" data-ipsquote-contentid="37180" data-ipsquote-contentclass="forums_Topic"><div>Great post D-Lyrium! One point, though. I believe you get a bonus to any counter after a successful Block, not just if you use Block a second time.</div></blockquote><p> </p><p> Yeah, that's correct. I'll edit the post. <img alt=":)" data-src="//content.invisioncic.com/g322608/emoticons/smile.png.142cfa0a1cd2925c0463c1d00f499df2.png" src="<___base_url___>/applications/core/interface/js/spacer.png"></p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OctoberRaven Posted December 21, 2013 Share Posted December 21, 2013 <p>Moveset-related tip:</p><p> </p><p> Are you a high flyer? Do you need a striking move that has a good chance of hit, cannot be braced or blocked, and will always knock your opponent down? Or a really, really versatile weapon to counter submission attempts with?</p><p> </p><p> Then Legsweep Kick is just what you need!</p><p> </p><p> Legsweep Kick is invaluable to a high flyer. The only standard counter to it is Avoid, meaning that you don't have to worry about block-happy opponents or giants using Brace spoiling your fun. Anyone with low speed will be prone to falling on their ground, and you know what that means? Yes, you can do ground moves, which are speed vs speed and cannot be shrugged off with Brace! Just do one Legsweep Kick then you can elbow those annoying big men like you're Dolph Ziggler on a cocaine bender!</p><p> </p><p> It's also VERY useful as a counter against leg submissions. Someone wants to wrap you up in a Scorpion, but your Strength is low? Go for the legsweep kick instead! You'll take them to the ground then get a chance to build your momentum!</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condors Posted January 7, 2014 Share Posted January 7, 2014 wanted to say thank you to D-Lyrium and BuddyGarner i have read and put these posts into practice. Got several blood dq's in my first year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eidenhoek Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 <p>I'll throw in what I've learned so far.</p><p> </p><p> Note: I'm changing the way I play the game: every match <strong>must</strong> be won. I've turned off auto save and I save after (or before) every match. Lose? Gotta try again. Gaming the system to maximize xp? Yes. Still have ridiculous ****ing matches against Cal Sanders and whoever his partner happens to be? Absolutely. It's boss fights.</p><p> </p><p> ~~~</p><p> </p><p> So yeah, if you're in the USA, Remmy Honeyman is a <em>fantastic</em> tag partner. Some guys are bigger and stronger (Achilles the Mighty is ridiculous), some are faster, some are better grapplers. Few are better all-around. Plus, y'know, he's a nice guy in TEW2013.</p><p> </p><p> I picked a Giant...blob guy, the last Entertainer I believe. 600 strength, 300 striking, and everything else sucks (though I'm getting it to 100 <img alt="" data-src="//content.invisioncic.com/g322608/emoticons/biggrin.png.929299b4c121f473b0026f3d6e74d189.png" src="<___base_url___>/applications/core/interface/js/spacer.png" />). How does Remmy help me? <strong><em>He's effectively a guy who's spent a bazillion points already.</em></strong> And he's not one-dimensional; he either has <em>some</em> advantage or is capable of pulling an underdog block/move/whatever against most people.</p><p> </p><p> So what do <em>I</em> bring?</p><p> </p><p> <strong>TIME.</strong></p><p> </p><p> In the early game, <strong>GET IN A TAG TEAM AND ONLY DO THOSE STORYLINES.</strong> If you're me, sure, you <em>can</em> do whatever, and the ones where you get gimmick matches and the like are kinda cool. But dang it, <em>solo matches are ridiculously hard when you're young and your opponents are anywhere close to competent.</em> As I said, Cal Sanders has handed me my ass...at least ten times now. I've faced him twice. And I've faced two no-names who <em>might</em> have barely gotten my UC into yellow health.</p><p> </p><p> Point is, you recover on the outside. <em>More</em> importantly, <em>your partner recovers on the outside.</em> Let them damage the opponent, both opponents, and switch <em>at the latest</em> when he's at Medium/yellow. He starts taking medium moves, you go down a hole <em>fast.</em> Low-level matches get bad <em>reaaaal</em> quick when the computer plays aggressive like that. <em>You</em> be the punching bag if anyone needs to be the punching bag.</p><p> </p><p> Though on that note, obviously, the longer the two of you are green, the better. The faster the <em>opponents</em> hit yellow (and ideally at least Low), the better. The faster you (or your partner) can finish the match, the better.</p><p> </p><p> Btw, be sure to officially make your team a team; already got saved once by Remmy. <img alt="" data-src="//content.invisioncic.com/g322608/emoticons/biggrin.png.929299b4c121f473b0026f3d6e74d189.png" src="<___base_url___>/applications/core/interface/js/spacer.png" /></p><p> </p><p> ~~~</p><p> </p><p> Strategy:</p><p> </p><p> </p><ol style="list-style-type:decimal;"><li>Low moves until you go for the win. Slam'em in the corner and chop them from 100% to 0% if you can. Drop them and Choke them (Medium = no DQ, remember?). Drop them and Body Lock them until they can't breathe, then...well, you get a 40% bonus when they have no stamina. So do whatever the hell you want. Rear chinlock does more damage and costs you less stamina, though, if you're so inclined.<br /></li><li>Medium moves suck. Yeah, I know they do more damage. The ground submissions are *awesome* at damage. But you *DON'T* want your opponents to move, ever. Take 100 exp for winning over 25+5 exp for losing in a good match (three stars is the best I've gotten; DUD only once). Until you get, say, 700 or better on a Medium move (easy if you drain stamina), don't touch them.<br /></li><li>You *could* go for the win when they're at Low. The problem? Most low moves aren't particularly effective at winning the match. Also, those low moves are only 10% better (or 100/1,000) or so at hitting. If I'm taking the chance to kill a guy, I want a finisher.<br /></li><li>^Unless I'm in the green. Then I just spam whatever powerbomb...Double Underhook I think, that I have that wins without vulnerability attached. If it hits, I sits. Er, pins. If I miss, I get back on offense ASAP and potentially tag out to Remmy (who has to get them to Danger status to win).<br /></li><li>Once you can start hitting finishers, spam them like hell. If one hits, go for the pin. You *can* play with momentum, you *can* play with stamina (and that last part is, admittedly, huge). Point is, whoever hits the big move first is the one to win.<br /></li><li>^Ignoring the...three Face Crushers my guy kicked out of at 0% and the 100-sorry, 10<em>3</em>-COW move that just won me a match. <_< >_><br /></li></ol><p></p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condors Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 <p>I am a big fan of </p><p> body scissors until 0 stamina</p><p> choke until no health</p><p> face rake until full momentum</p><p> then stunning facecrusher for the win</p><p> </p><p> not very exciting but effective </p><p> </p><p> (just a note you need ground 250 for body scissors so if i don't start with that i move it up to there asap and i usually trademark the move to increase it chance of hit)</p><p> </p><p> Which brings me best way to collect and spend experience. </p><p> So far from my playing getting to lower level at USPW and hanging there to get the extra experience until you feel ready to move on may be the best way to collect experience.</p><p> </p><p> Spending experience I change my mind every time i think about it.</p><p> </p><p> I feel maxing your speed and strength and spirit for defensive purposes is critical</p><p> </p><p> then getting</p><p> </p><p> trademark move(s) with increased coh (can be invaluable but expensive)</p><p> defensive attributes</p><p> getting attributes with a +coh and + damage for your trademark move(s)</p><p> </p><p> I don't know how much it costs and how much you can expect to make over your career. I do know that 100 per win 400 a month 4800 a year is not going to be enough long term. </p><p> </p><p> just some rambling while i am at working thinking about the game</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eidenhoek Posted January 15, 2014 Share Posted January 15, 2014 Don't grow your popularity until everything's at least 400. Yeah, sure, do it earlier, do it with a partner. Well screw this save and screw Killer B. I can get reeeeeally close, but I can't end it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackman Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 <p>If you start out, don't forget to pick up some 'negative skills', like:</p><p> </p><p> Afraid To Fly</p><p> Dozing Partner lvl 3</p><p> Fish Out of Water lvl 3</p><p> </p><p> I (and apparently almost everyone) used these for my technical character, and it raises one of your attributes to 700/800 from the get-go if desired, which could be quite a boost. It allowed me to win at least 12 out of the first 15 matches, whereas otherwise your character might struggle to pick up wins and (additionally) experience points.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackjack Posted January 28, 2014 Share Posted January 28, 2014 <p>If I were doing a formula for Brace (which one or neither)?</p><p> </p><p> Strength + Size /2 VS Strength + Size /2</p><p> or</p><p> Max of Strength & Size VS Max of Strength & Size</p><p> </p><p> Also what are the values for weights (ie. Lightweight, Middle, Heavy, and Big)</p><p> Lightweight is 300</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackjack Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 <blockquote data-ipsquote="" class="ipsQuote" data-ipsquote-username="D-Lyrium" data-cite="D-Lyrium" data-ipsquote-contentapp="forums" data-ipsquote-contenttype="forums" data-ipsquote-contentid="37180" data-ipsquote-contentclass="forums_Topic"><div> The important values are 700, 800, 900 and 1000, as that's when you get 1, 2, 3 and 4 Warrior Spirit points (which allow you to do cool things like kick out of finishers which would otherwise have pinned you, or escape submission moves just as you're about to tap out). In career mode, maximum Spirit is dictated by Popularity.</div></blockquote><p> </p><p> Can you explain "Maximum Spirit is dictated by popularity in career mode? I have 800+ spirit, so do I get 2 Warrior points or is this different in career mode? If so do you know the formula for that?</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eidenhoek Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 <p>The formula's the same; if you have 800 (or 900 or 200 [no points, obviously]) Spirit, you get two Warrior Points.</p><p> </p><p> In RtL mode, the cap on your Spirit (and Overall Rating) is linked to your highest popularity e.g. I'm an Indy Star in Mexico, so my caps are...uh...can't remember. Oh, I'm just starting out and thus Unknown everywhere? 350 and 300 are the caps. Mind, <em>the actual values themselves start at 300 each.</em> So you have to increase them to get the benefits; you just can't go beyond the current cap.</p><p> </p><p> Hint: You <em>can</em> stockpile exp for when you <strong>do</strong> get a higher cap; I'd suggest you do so just to keep up with the new challenges.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-Lyrium Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 <blockquote data-ipsquote="" class="ipsQuote" data-ipsquote-username="Blackjack" data-cite="Blackjack" data-ipsquote-contentapp="forums" data-ipsquote-contenttype="forums" data-ipsquote-contentid="37180" data-ipsquote-contentclass="forums_Topic"><div>Can you explain "Maximum Spirit is dictated by popularity in career mode?</div></blockquote><p> </p><p> As Eiden said (but since you PMed me I guess I'll answer too so that it doesn't look like I ignored the message <img alt=":p" data-src="//content.invisioncic.com/g322608/emoticons/tongue.png.ceb643b2956793497cef30b0e944be28.png" src="<___base_url___>/applications/core/interface/js/spacer.png">), your maximum Spirit at any given time depends on your popularity. So if you're only Unknown, your maximum spirit is 350 (in RTL mode you'll start at 300, so unless you gain popularity you can only raise it by 50pts). So you can't get any warrior spirit points, because it'd be a tad silly for Jobby McJobber to suddenly start channeling Kenta Kobashi.</p><p> </p><p> </p><blockquote data-ipsquote="" class="ipsQuote" data-ipsquote-contentapp="forums" data-ipsquote-contenttype="forums" data-ipsquote-contentid="37180" data-ipsquote-contentclass="forums_Topic"><div>I have 800+ spirit, so do I get 2 Warrior points or is this different in career mode? If so do you know the formula for that?</div></blockquote><p> </p><p> If you have 800+ spirit, you get 2 Warrior points, regardless of which mode you're in. The only restriction career mode places on you is how quickly you can GET 800+ spirit, as you need to progress through the ranks until your cap is high enough to let you improve your Spirit to that point.</p><p> </p><p> If you're starting off as an existing character who has 800 spirit to start with, then you don't need to worry about that.</p><p> </p><p> There's no particular reason it's "hidden" from the player... just screen space issues/Adam didn't see the need/didn't think of it in time (delete as appropriate <img alt=":p" data-src="//content.invisioncic.com/g322608/emoticons/tongue.png.ceb643b2956793497cef30b0e944be28.png" src="<___base_url___>/applications/core/interface/js/spacer.png">).</p><p> </p><p> </p><blockquote data-ipsquote="" class="ipsQuote" data-ipsquote-username="Blackjack" data-cite="Blackjack" data-ipsquote-contentapp="forums" data-ipsquote-contenttype="forums" data-ipsquote-contentid="37180" data-ipsquote-contentclass="forums_Topic"><div>If I were doing a formula for Brace (which one or neither)?<p> </p><p> Strength + Size /2 VS Strength + Size /2</p><p> or</p><p> Max of Strength & Size VS Max of Strength & Size</p><p> </p><p> Also what are the values for weights (ie. Lightweight, Middle, Heavy, and Big)</p><p> Lightweight is 300</p></div></blockquote><p> </p><p> To be honest, I have no idea.</p><p> </p><p> I'm pretty sure it's impossible to Shrug Off moves by someone more than 100pts stronger than you (otherwise it's "hit with too much power"), but no idea what else is at play there.</p><p> </p><p> Also note that the Shrug Off mechanic is only a small part of what Brace does (although it is the most useful bit!), you don't have to be bigger or stronger to use Brace, only to Shrug Off strikes.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.